The "Pollution Solution" - unused and covered in pollution

What a sad example of the current state of society.

Covered in muck, and ignoring the answer, while it's already available!

Electric vehicles and public charge stations. If you need more proof, go to your car, connect a hose from the tailpipe to the inside, get in, roll up all the windows and close the doors and then start the motor.

HOW LONG WILL YOU LAST?

I think the planet is doing pretty well, considering THAT'S THE SAME THING WE ARE DOING TO IT!

Adapter Plate Template

With the gearbox requiring some TLC and a wire brush and maybe some WD-40, I quickly traced the outline onto some stock wood to cut a template.




As you can see from the second pic, I'm going to have to cut a space for the drive shafts to fit. I don't think it's necessary to be 100% accurate, since the adapter plate doesn't need to be watertight, but I'd like to get it as close as possible, just to eliminate the possibility of vibration or problems in the future.

You can also see the dashed lines at the "top" of the adapter plate. Rather than making the top match the curve of the gearbox, I'm thinking of extending it up and having a flat top with a series of holes drilled into it. This would make it like a modified Picatinny Rail and enable me to bolt a shelf to the top of the adapter plate to hold the controller or support the battery rack.











The good news is that now I can start talking to my local machine shop/fabricators and actually have something they can see, measure and work with, rather than just drawings on paper. YAY!

Transmission arrived!

Thanks to Shaun (aka Phineas Q Butterfat) on the Pulsar Forums, I now have a used manual 5 speed N13 gearbox. I swapped a 6-pack of Coronas for it.

I will be using this to design my Adapter Plate. Gav at KiwiEV has a neat little diagram to show how the pieces fit together:


Shaun advised against putting it in the car since it's been behind a turbo and is pretty tired. I'm not sure the high torque of my electric motor won't to damage, so it's best not to risk it.

As you can see, there's a little rust on it, but nothing a soak in WD40 and some TLC won't fix.

Manual Safety Disconnect

I already have a circuit breaker installed in the control box to cut the power if anything goes wrong and there is a power spike.

But I also wanted something I can control. If I park the car and start charging it, I want to be able to disconnect the battery without opening the bonnet (hood).

Gav over at KiwiEV has hooked a choke cable to his circuit breaker to cut the power manually, but he then has to open the bonnet to reset the breaker. Here's where my solution comes to the fore:
















A pair of Anderson Plugs, mounted to drawer runners and activated by a cable and returned using a spring. Pulling the cable breaks the connection and "safes" the car. Letting the spring pull the handle back "powers" the car and lets you drive again.

If I make a little catch on the cable, I'll be able to pull and lock the handle "open" and leave it there indefinitely, then hop in, release the handle (just like a park brake), turn the ignition and drive away.

When it is better to have a small car...

Yeah yeah, I know some smart alec's going to say "Oh, but the Hummer would still be driveable after an impact like that!" That's no justification for burning a gallon of terrorism-sponsoring gasoline every 5 miles just driving to the office, school and soccer practice.

EV-wise, I've finished soldering the wires in the battery display, and finished the drawings for my Anderson cut-off switch. That will probably be my next post.

In the meantime, I still need about $1,000 for the motor, so please, please , please donate a few dollars?